Photos

Here are a few photos I promised. The first is of a Kudu, the second of elephants (obviously) and the last is of me in front of the hippo in the lodge I was describing. More next time!

Nothing like the lullaby of a lion's roar

This past Friday was Independence Day (1964) so of course we had the day off work. We were pretty keen on getting out of the city so Heather, our other friend Leila and I made plans with our friends Ebrahim (Ebs) and Salim to go to Kafue National Park, about 3 hours away. Unfortunately Heather had to go out of town for work so she couldnt come with us. We camped for the weekend, in the middle of the bush. The camp was beautiful, right on the Kafue river. It was very basic, no lodges or anything, just tents. A lovely eating area and very impressive bathrooms with proper toilets and everything! By now I am used to going in a latrine when I go to the compounds so this was luxury. We arrived Friday afternoon, rested for a few moments and then eagerly went on an evening game drive. We saw elephants, heaps of puku and impala (similar to deer), warthog, monkeys, baboons, waterbuck, kudu, and birds. It was amazing! We got back to camp and had a lovely meal. Saturday morning we woke up with the sunset and went on an early drive. Our driver told us that only about 15 minutes before we woke up, there was an elephant a mere 20 feet from our tent! On the drive we really wanted to spot some cats. No such luck, but we did see more elephants, some zebras, and vultures eating the leftover carcass of an impala. After breakfast we headed to another part of the river, 60km into the middle of nowhere, off the main road. A couple of times we had to stop the car to lift up a tree that had been broken down by elephants. We spent the afternoon relaxing, it was so peaceful there. We fished (I caught 2 fish!) and just sat by the water with the hippos not too far from us. There were no other people in sight, just the sounds of the birds and groans of the hippos. On the drive back to the main road we were lucky enough to spot a herd of about 50 elephants. It was quite something. We stopped in at a lodge that we had heard had a hippo that hangs out there. This was true, a hippo just lying there on their balcony overlooking the river with nothing more than a wicker bench separating us from him. Basil is his name. He is a wild hippo, not fed or trained by the lodge staff. He starting going there a few years back when he was being beaten up by the bigger hippos. I would too, it was a beautiful lodge! Now he is there on a daily basis, the owner told us. Great for business though!

Another delicious meal back at camp and a relatively early night to bed, considering we had woken up so early that morning. On our way back from the washrooms (after dark) I saw a set of eyes next to our tent, with my headlamp and immediately knew it was some sort of animal. I figured it was an impala or a puku since they are so rampant but when it didnt jump away but rather walked away ever so graciously, I knew it was not. I saw its approximate size and figure, described it to Ebs (who lived in the bush for many years) and sure enough.....it was most likely a leopard. A leapord???! Yikes! Apparently there is a female leopard with her cubs that pass through camp every so often. No need to worry though, I was quickly told. They are not at all interested in humans. Just don't bother them, they are more afraid of you then you are of them. So we sat and just talked for a while longer, only to hear a roar in the distance. Lions, Ebs says...they are likely fighting over a kill they had made. What's next? The sounds of elephants breaking down tree trucks for food. Don't worry, really - you are in a tent, you' re fine. So here we are in a camp with nothing more than a piece of nylon protecting us from the wild animals of Africa. As you can imagine, I didn't sleep all that well. But alas, I am fine. It was an amazing experience and a very relaxing weekend indeed.

I wanted to add some photos of the weekend but I only had a few minutes at the internet cafe so there wasn't enough time to upload them. Next time!

And thus let the rains begin!

Friday afternoon, the rains began. About an hour before it started raining Mwande told me, "it's going to rain today. The clouds are getting dark, the weather is changing and it smells like rain". My response was "no...it's too early isn't it?" The rains aren't supposed to start until mid to late October. What do I know though?! We both left work at the same time and minutes later it started trickling down. Minutes after that it started to rain rain. And minutes thereafter, it started to pour. I have never seen rain quite like it. I even had to take a different path at one point as my normal route was completely flooded. Even so, my alternate path I still had to walk through about a foot of water. I was totally not prepared for the rains to begin, mentally I mean. I felt that my whole aura was thrown off! Also physically I am not ready, no umbrella or gumboots as of yet. Apparently when the rains start early we can expect the next week or two to be really hot...as if the recent 40 degree weather hasn't been hot enough! But I know I will be aching for the heat once it starts raining everyday and I realize how unpleasant it is to be wet all the time.

My #1 and #2 most fun days in Zambia thus far

So last Saturday I was invited to my friend Mwande's home, the same friend that came to Melanie's birthday with us and in the photo with me from my last post. She lives with her mother, three year old daughter Emma, niece and two nephews. I arrived at 10am and she met me at the bus stop by her compound. We started off by buying some food at the market for lunch, followed by watching a dance competition that coincidentally was on at that time. It never seizes to amaze me how the people here can shake their hips! We then continued on to her place. When we were about 200m away I saw a pin sized figure in the horizon, slowly getting bigger and bigger. Mwande then says, "oh, there's Emma!" as she was running towards us with excitement. She ran right into my arms, it was so sweet. She was then my little buddy all day, attached to my hip. The original plan was for me to go to her place the weekend before last but since I was still not 100% well after the malaria, we decided to postpone. But Mwande had told Emma about me and she got really excited to meet me. Apparently, the weekend I had to cancel, Emma dressed herself early in the morning and was waiting by the door for me by the time Mwande woke up. As you can imagine by this, she was quite disappointed after her mother told her I wasn't coming. They live in a very densely populated shanty compound on the outskirts of Lusaka which does not see many (if any at all) white people. Emma had never met a white person before, and she was petting my arm, in awe with the colour of my skin. She didn't speak English but most often you don't need a common verbal language to communicate (which I have learned in working with some of my kids at the CICC who don't speak English). So we got to their place and within minutes, a pile of neighbour kids were coming to visit. We made lunch, outside on charcoal burners as they do not have electricity (or plumbing). We made nshima, rape (green vegetable) with groundnuts (peanuts), and soya pieces. It was delicious! Then we started off, visiting Mwande's family in neighbouring compounds. First was her grandmother, then her sister, and ending with her auntie. Boy did we ever walk a lot, in total of about 1.5 hours in the blazing sun! Throughout our adventure there, more and more kids followed behind us. Everyone was so friendly, greeting us and smiling and wanting to come along. It was such an amazing place, everything and everyone seeming so peaceful and joyful. I just couldn't stop smiling. We had only planned on staying at her aunties for a little while but then she turned the music on and the dance party begun...we started off slowly, everyone a bit shy, and only about 5 people. However, within a short while it seemed like the whole neighbourhood was in her auntie's tiny living room dancing away. There we were, about 25 people (4 adults and the rest kids) dancing to various Zambian and Congolese rhumba artists. I think I lost about 5 pounds in sweat! We danced for about 3 hours before heading back to Mwande's. We got back just before dark, I stayed for supper, sat with her family in their living room (lit up by a candle) and then made my way home. A day I will always remember, that's for sure. I have been invited back every Saturday.

This leads me to my second most fun day thus far. Yesterday, I went back to Mwande's place. Unfortunately Emma was with her grandmother at the farm so I didn't get to see them. Mwande picked me up, we bought some food from the market for lunch and headed straight to her auntie Stella's place. I cooked the nshima this time. I can tell that I am getting better at cooking it, as there are no longer dried chunks of mealie meal (corn flour) that have not been properly mixed in. They both told me a bit about their past, the "hell" they have been through, which gave me goose bumps. It is an inspiration to see where they are now, their successes and achievements, with all they have overcome. We then headed to Mwande's friend's baby shower, for 2 month old Janet. There were about 20 women, all with babies. I have in heaven, as you can imagine. It started off with singing and praying. There is always one or two people who lead the songs while the others follow, clapping away. Again, I got goose bumps and chills through my whole body. It is incredible how a group of women who likely have never all sung together as a group can sound like a professional choir. The songs were just so powerful and passionate, despite me not being able to understand them as they were in Nyanja. We then ate and opened presents and danced. Presents varied quite a bit, from 10pin (about $3) in cash to a soother to dresses. Mwande and I washed, rinsed, and dried all the dishes and the women were telling us they hope we have lots of babies who grow up and be as hard workers as us. No washing machines in sight. My cheeks hurt from smiling so much. All in all, quite a different baby shower than those in Canada. I will be back there next Saturday, for yet another baby shower!

The photos - last post I forgot to mention what the photos were. One of is of my friend Mwande and I and the other I took in the village I had visited. This post, the photos are of my flat. My landlord and his family live in most of what you see. We live in the right portion, where you see a window, a door and another window. Then the other photo is of our living room and kitchen (with Heather sitting there). To the right of that photo there is a tv and another couch and to the left is the rest of the kitchen and our bedrooms. Small but cozy!

My love affair with Zambia....until I got malaria

Day after day I am loving it here more and more. We got our work permits! I can legally work here until 2010....so who knows. The weather is definitely getting hotter, averaging 35-40 degrees. Only to get hotter in October! "This is nothing!" people say. I usually resort to wearing a hair scarf which I wet to cool me down.

A couple weeks ago I got the opportunity to travel to Chongwe, a rural village about an hour and a half out of Lusaka - an hour and 20 minutes of that off the beaten track and into the bush. The YWCA is helping to build a skills training centre there which will also double as a boarding house. We went to check on the status of the construction of the building, which we discovered hasn't yet begun. Some of the local residents did not speak any English and and a boy I was playing with I don't think had ever seen a white person before. He was about 8 years old and at first he appeared to be scared of me but after some time he smiled and then we made some drawings with sticks in the dirt. I took a couple photos of him which he just loved and if I get the chance to go back to the village I will develop the photos and give them to him.

Last week I slept over at the CICC, where I work. The girls had been asking me to spend the night for quite some time so I was happy to do so. I brought my laptop, speakers and Zambian music that I have acquired since being here. The girls love dancing! We spent the entire afternoon dancing and laughing and playing. My hips sure are starting to loosen up as I learn to dance like a Zambian. It's really fun. I brought stuff to make dinner - spaghetti, sauce with veggies, garlic bread, and salad. A few of them had never eaten spaghetti before. They helped cook and really had fun doing it. Yum, it was good and everyone enjoyed it. Phew! I taught them limbo and brought some magazines for them to read. It was just such a fun night for us all. The next morning I was asked to accompany one of the girls to school, as it was "parent-teacher interviews". I felt privileged to go. And yes she is doing well, especially in math, science, and baking.

Last Saturday was Melanie's birthday so to celebrate we had a party at a restaurant and karaoke bar. We sang and danced the night away! It was a lot of fun. A couple of my friends from work came along, one of whom had never been to a restaurant before nor had ever used a fork and knife (nshima you eat with your hands of course). She was quite overwhelmed at first but definitely enjoyed herself. A night to remember, she said. I agree.

Last Sunday I was invited to a kitchen party (bachelorette type party), which was originally scheduled for a few weeks ago but was postponed due to national mourning after the president died. There were about 350 women, drumming, dancing, and food galore. A kitchen party is quite the procession - first there is drumming and people just mingling, then we ate, then the bride is brought out, covered with a chitenge (traditional fabric), after which the husband-to-be comes out with flowers and money, hoping she will accept his offer. If she does, she will take the chitenge off her face and they will kiss. Then he will leave and the party continues. Each present is then opened by a "helper" while the bride is seated on a cushion on the floor with her face down not looking too happy. I asked why this was and a woman told me it was a form of respect. When your present is opened you are to go up in front of everyone, explain to the bride what it is and then dance with the drums in the background. So picture a room with 350 women, yelling out in excitement, cheering, laughing, and pointing at the 3 muzungu's (white people) up there trying to shake our hips while not looking too silly. Good thing I have had so much practice with my kids at work (as well as at the club that plays Congolese rhumba, which I just love), otherwise I would have no idea what to do. They were so excited! I was so nervous. But it was fun! I am hoping that their laughing and screaming was with us rather than at us. My guess is that it was a bit of both.

So yup, it's true...I got malaria. Malaria here is like a common cold back in Canada - everyone and there uncle gets it on a yearly basis. I started feeling a bit sick to my stomach Tuesday morning but didnt think much of it and went to work anyway. It didnt get better. I threw up, felt very weak, had a headache, and a fever. I went to a clinic, they did a quick blood test and 15 minutes later I got my results. Malaria it is. It's true what they say - that anti-malaria pills aren't 100%. We automatically think of malaria as a disease that kills, which yes it does but that generally only occurs when people unfortunately can't afford treatment or those who live in the villages who don't have immediate access to medical facilities. In addition to taking the medication, lots of sleep, and 4 days off work, I also did a home-made sauna natural remedy thing that I was advised about from my neighbour. You take the leaves of a weeping willow tree (which look very different from those in Canada) and the leaves of a peach tree (both of which we have in our front yard) and boil them for 30 minutes. Then get under a blanket with the pot, mixing the leaves around for about 5 minutes and the steam takes care of the rest. Apparently the mixture of your body sweating and the natural chemicals in the leaves is beneficial! So no need to worry - I finished my last pill this morning, am feeling much better, and expect to make full recovery in the next few days. I go back to the clinic this week to make sure the parasite is out of my body completely. And hey, it made this blog a little more interesting! So despite getting malaria, I still love it here.

If you would like me to send you a postcard or letter please e-mail me your address and I will do so! Alternatively, you can send me a letter (hint hint, haha) with your return address and I will write you back:

Laura Shugar (obviously)
P.O. box 34906
Lusaka, Zambia
Africa

I would give you my plot number to send letters directly to my flat but apparently if you do that, and your letter looks somewhat interesting, the mail person may get curious and open it. Sending to the P.O box is safer.

Vic falls

The photos worked this time. They are both taken at Victoria falls. The first photo is of my at the top of the falls, looking down...a long, long way down! The other photo is of the falls - the right side of the picture is a section of the Zambian side and the left is the Zimbabwe side. As you can see from the mist, the Zim side has much more flow in the dry season. Photos just doesn't do it justice.

Hippos and crocs and elephants, oh my!

So not this past weekend but the weekend before we traveled down to Livingstone, home to Victoria Falls (one of the 7 natural wonders of the world). It was beautiful, despite there not being much water at all. Keep in mind that it has not rained a single drop in about 5 months so one can only expect the falls to be less spectacular this time of year. With this said however, there are advantages to going now. The falls are also called Mosi-oa-Tunya (The smoke that thunders), and the spray from it (in the rainy season) can be seen from 30km away.

So we boarded the 6am bus on Friday morning and off we were! The first 5 hours went by fairly quickly but come hour 6, when we began driving on an unpaved path, the bumpy road began and the driver swerved from left to right and right to left in attempt to avoid all the potholes, bumps, and ditches. But alas, we made it safe and sound in just over 6 hours. We were even given cookies and a drink on the bus! Luckily we had a few friends, also CIDA interns, who are living in Livingstone and gladly took us in for the weekend. First thing Saturday morning we headed to the falls, no time to waste. We hit up every viewing point, and considered crossing over to the Zimbabwe side (as in the dry season, the Zim side has much more water) but it was quite expensive.

"In high water a raincoat is largely ineffective as the spray blows all around and soaks you in seconds" (yes, quoted from a guide book). Thus, it is obviously much more difficult to take photos in the rainy season. Also, because it was the dry season we were able to walk on top of the falls, looking down! We rock-hopped to where the falls were and it was spectacular. There was a lovely rainbow and the water sprayed us a bit (which was nice because it was so hot). On our way back however, the water had risen (who knew there would be a tide?!) and the route we had originally taken was submerged under water. My anxiety grew and I was somewhat concerned we would get stranded on top of the waterfall. "Coincidentally" there are local guys strategically waiting here for tourists such as ourselves to take us back to dry land. Not without getting wet first though. Off our shoes came and into the water we went - at one point up to our knees, balancing on not-so-steady rocks. The only way back was to shuffle side to side along a man-made ledge the width of a balance beam. We created a human chain, holding hands to create more stability as the current increased in strength (does it sound like a cheesy suspense novel yet?!). After the initial shock of actually doing this wore off, it became quite an exciting adventure! We even almost had a few run-ins with wild monkeys in the parking lot on our way back into town.

In the evening we boarded a sunset cruise along the Zambezi river, which runs along a national park. Here we saw an elephant, crocs, hippos, and many different species of birds. We had dinner - a braii (bbq), and drinks and just relaxed. The sunset here is spectacular, going from a bright orange to pink and ending with a purple sky.

Our bus trip back was not quite as pleasant as the trip there. We started off an hour and a half late (after taping up the cracked windshield with clear packing tape), broke down about 30 minutes into the trip (whereby they fixed a broken tube by wrapping around an old t-shirt), had to back track when they realized that they had left tools behind where we had broken down, and made lengthy stops about 12 times. Ten hours later, we finally arrived home. And back to work we went. I am definitely hoping to make it back to Livingstone in the rainy season, to see the falls in full force.

I tried to upload photos of the falls but the internet kept cutting out before the photos loaded properly. Hopefully it will work next time.